V They entered the streets of Juchipila as the church bells rang, loud and joyfully, with that peculiar tone that thrills every mountaineer. "It makes me think we are back in the days when the revolution was just beginning, when the bells rang like mad in every town we entered and everybody came out with music, flags, cheers, and fireworks to welcome us," said Anastasio Montanez. "They don't like us no more," Demetrio returned. "Of course. We're crawling back like a dog with its tail between its legs," Quail remarked. "It ain't that, I guess. They don't give a whoop for the other side either." "But why should they like us?" They spoke no more. Presently they reached the city square and stopped in front of an octagonal, rough, massive church, reminis- cent of the colonial period. At one time the square must have been a garden, judging from the bare stunted orange trees planted between iron and wooden benches. The sonorous, joyful bells rang again. From within the church, the honeyed voices of a female chorus rose melancholy and grave. To the strains of a guitar, the young girls of the town sang the "Mysteries." "What's the fiesta, lady?" Venancio asked of an old woman who was running toward the church. "The Sacred Heart of Jesus!" answered the pious woman, panting. They remembered that one year ago they had captured Zacatecas. They grew sadder still. Juchipila, like the other towns they had passed through on their way from Tepic, by way of Jalisco, Aguasca- lientes and Zacatecas, was in ruins. The black trail of the incendiaries showed in the roofless houses, in the burnt arcades. Almost all the houses were closed, yet, here and there, those still open offered, in ironic contrast, portals gaunt and bare as the white skeletons of horses scattered over the roads. The terrible pangs of hunger seemed to speak from every face; hunger on every dusty cheek, in their dusty countenances; in the hectic flame of their eyes, which, when they met a soldier, blazed with hatred. In vain the soldiers scoured the streets in search of food, biting their lips in anger. A single lunch- room was open; at once they filled it. No beans, no tor- tillas, only chili and tomato sauce. In vain the officers showed their pocketbooks stuffed with bills or used threats: "Yea, you've got papers all right! That's all you've brought! Try and eat them, will you?" said the owner, an insolent old shrew with an enormous scar on her cheek, who told them she had already lain with a dead man, "to cure her from ever feeling frightened again." Despite the melancholy and desolation of the town, while the women sang in the church, birds sang in the foliage, and the thrushes piped their lyrical strain on the withered branches of the orange trees.